Namo tassa bhagavato arahato sammāsambuddhassa

buddhist flag

spacePilgrimage sites in north india

space 

Lumbiṇī

Uruvelā

Rājagaha

Isipatana

Sāvatthī

Kusinārā

 

 

In his last 18 hours, as he died a painful death from a mesenteric infarction, the buddha Gotama is alleged to have said to his confidant Ānanda: 'Ānanda, there are four places the sight of which should erouse emotion in the faithful. Which are they? "Here the tathāgata was born" is the first. "Here the tathāgata attained supreme awakening" is the second. "Here the tathāgata set in motion the wheel of teaching" is the third. "Here the tathāgata attained the nibbāna-element without remainder" is the fourth. And, Ānanda, the faithful monks and nuns, and male and female lay-followers will visit those places. And anyone who dies while making the pilgrimage to these shrines with a devout heart will, at the breaking up of the body after death, be reborn in a Brahmā world.' ('Mahāparinibbāna sutta'). These words put into Gotama's mouth testify to early development of pilgrimage by the ancient buddhists. The four sites referred to, the 'places arousing emotion' (samvejanīyatṭhāna), are Lumbiṇī, Uruvelā (Bodhgaya), Isipatana (Sārnāth), and Kusinārā (Kushinagar). They are still the four main pilgrimage destinations in India for buddhists. I visited them in January with the Bodhikusuma Buddhist and Meditation Center (Sydney).

Lumbiṇī

Lumbiṇī was a forest where Gotama was born in about 484 BCE. It was within the small republican polity of Sākya, whose capital was Kapilavatthu. Contrary to buddhist myth, Gotama was not a prince: his father was not a king, rather, the tribal chief in an oligarchic republic where any farmer-warrior eligible for election was a rājan. Kapilavatthu was destroyed by the king of Kosala when Gotama was in his late 70s, and Sākya seems to have had no more life as a recognizable political entity. The name is still in use because Gotama was referred to as the Sakyan son (Sākyaputta) or Sakyan sage (Sākyamuni). The latter epithet, characteristically used by Mahāyānikas, is of 'Hīnāyana' provenance, and appears on an inscription in Bharhut dating from 100-80 BCE.

We do not know the boy's first name. Later hagiographers gave him the name Siddhattha. The epithet, siddhatta, meaning 'that which has attained the goal', was used by jains to refer to the perfected personal ātman, 'soul' or 'self', when it gained release and went to the place of siddhi, 'perfection', at the top of the world where all the siddhas, 'perfected ones', went (Norman, A philological approach to buddhism). The transformation of an epithet into a proper noun was common in ancient India, and the buddhists appropriated many terms from their more powerful rivals the jains. The oldest buddhist texts refer to the man only by his clan name, Gotama.

We also do not know his mother's name. Most buddhist traditions call her Māyā. This is a mistake based on a sound change in the word for mother, mātā, resulting from a change of intervocalic -t- to -y- in the Māgadhī dialect (Norman, A philological approach to buddhism). Buddhist myth says she died within a week of childbirth, which jars with a statement of Gotama's that when he left home as a youth to seek awakening he left his parents weeping.

Buddhist hagiography has it that the boy was able to walk and speak from birth. They say he took seven steps and announced: 'I am the highest in the world; I am the best in the world; I am the foremost in the world. This is my last birth; now there is no renewal of being in future lives for me.'

Stephen Batchelor gives an account of Gotama's boyhood at Dharma Seed. And see Lumbinī, Lumbini and Lumbini on trial.

The conventional view is that Lumbiṇī is located at a site that is now within the borders of the modern state of Nepal, which is the basis of an anachronistic claim that Gotama was a Nepali. This site is contested: an alternative location suggested is Domingarh, in India; likewise, the location of Kapilavatthu could be at Maghar.

Uruvelā

The Buddha myth says that Gotama, at age 35, was staying in the Uruvelā forest near the village of Senānīgāma, on the banks of the Nerañjarā river (now called the Lilanjan river). This was some ten kilometers south of the brahmanical holy center of Gayā, in Magadha (today, southern Bihar). It was about 449 BCE. It was there that, through meditation, Gotama awakened to the insights that were the basis of his subsequent teaching, and which got him acknowledgment by his peers as a buddha, 'awakened one'. The epithet buddha was one of a number of such titles sought by holy men, the most prestigious being jina, 'conqueror'. Ken Norman (A philological approach to buddhism) notes that the concept buddha is also used by Jains, and was a word in common use before the origin of both buddhism and jainism. It referred to someone who was 'awakened' to the possibilities of release from saṃsāra. Norman comments: '… and it was then a matter of the historical development in the terminology of both religions that the specific distinction which those words denote now in those two religions arose. That is, there were buddhas and there were jinas before the beginning of both Buddhism and Jainism.'

André Bareau argues that Uruvelā was not the location of Gotama's awakening, and the early buddhists had no knowledge of or interest in the site of Gotama's awakening, but ancient buddhists chose Uruvelā as the location during the development of a buddha cult and associated pilgrimage before the end of the 4th century BCE ('Le buddha et Uruvilvā'). The great buddhist emperor, Asoka (304-232 BCE), visited it. The name Bodhgaya is modern, but usefully serves to distinguish the site from the hindus' Gayā. Gotama expressed his disdain for seeking to purify oneself by bathing at Gayā in the 'Vatthupama sutta'.

Stephen Batchelor gives a fascinating account of Gotama's awakening at Dharma Seed. And see Uruvelā, A history of Bodh Gaya, Bodh Gaya, and A buddhist site under threat.

Rājagaha

Rajgir (Rājagaha in Pāli) is an ancient settlement that, in the 5th century BCE, was the site for the capital of the monarchical state of Magadha (today, southern Bihar). Gotama made many visits there, and legend locates the giving of many discourses at a nearby hill, the wonderfully-named Vultures Peak (Gijjhakūṭa). Buddhist legend (dismissed by modern scholars) says that an assembly of monks was held at Rājagaha 3 months after Gotama's death to recite and canonize the suttas and monastic rules.

Stephen Batchelor gives an account of Gotama's early visits to Rājagaha at Dharma Seed. And see Rājagaha, and Rajgir.

Isipatana

Gotama initially hesitated about teaching about the insights that he had come to. However, the myth says he decided to share his insights with a group of 5 friends, also ascetics. They were staying near Varanasi (Bāraṇāsī in Pāli). It would have taken him 2 months on foot to walk there from Magadha. The myth says he found them at Migadāya, also called Isipatana (today's Sārnāth), meaning the place of the deer or antelope, some 10 kilometers north of Bārāṇasī. The stories around the first discourse, and its location at Isipatana-Migadāya, are a late addition to Gotama's hagiography; the discourse is not pictured in art until the 1st century CE, at Sāñcī, and the stories are not present in Chinese translations of Indian buddhist texts until the 3rd century CE (Patricia Karetzky, 'The first sermon').

The discourse he reportedly gave is known as the 'Dhammacakkappavattana sutta', meaning the 'discourse on setting in motion the wheel of Dhamma'. It has two significances in the history of buddhism. One, it began Gotama's 45-year teaching career. Two, it occasioned the founding of the buddhist monastic order (at that stage, of men only), because after the discourse one of the other 5 ascetics, Koṇḍañña, asked to join with Gotama in a new community (saṅgha) of ascetics. This group was distinct and separate from the orthodox brahmins and sannyasins of the dominant Vedic brahmanical religion (which, over 600 later years later, evolved into hinduism), and from other heterodox ascetics who rejected brahmanism (jains and ājīvikas).

While this sutta is claimed to be Gotama's first address, it is not mentioned in the oldest biography in existence, the Ariyapariyesana sutta.

'… here we have no Suddhodana, no Mahāmāyā, no Mahāpajāpatī Gotamī, no Yasodharā and Rāhula, no pleasure palace, no women of the harem, no four signs, no Channa, no renunciatory fanfare, no practice of the austerities, no Sujātā's rice-milk, no Māra's army at the Bodhi tree, no three watches of the night, no seven weeks after Enlightenment, no text of the First Sermon (replaced with the heap of snares, Frame IV!).' (Jonathan Walters, 'Suttas as history: four approaches to the Sermon on the noble quest')

That sutta reports that his first discourse was a parable about the snares of sensual passions. One of the aspects of the 'Dhammacakkappavattana sutta' that indicates it was not Gotama's first discourse is its use of the term ariyasaccaṃ, translated as 'noble truth', to describe the four themes the ancient buddhists used to summarize his teaching. However, the terms 'noble' and 'truth' were probably not used in the original formulation of these themes - which was idaṃ dukkhaṃ ayaṃ dukkhasamudayo ayaṃ dukkhanirodho ayaṃ dukkhanirodhagāminī, as found in the Bhayabherava sutta (Norman, 'The four noble truths: a problem of Pāli syntax').

Stephen Batchelor gives an account of Gotama's first discourses at Dharma Seed. And see Isipatana, and Sarnath.

Sāvatthī

Sravasti (Sāvatthī in Pāli) was the capital of the kingdom of Kosala, in the eastern part of today's Uttar Pradesh. Buddhist myth has it that Gotama spent 25 wet-season residences in Sāvatthī. These rains-residences were during the 3 months when monsoons prevented ascetics from wandering about begging and teaching. The Sāvatthī period, from when Gotama was aged 56 to his late 70s, was a critical period for the formulation of buddhist teachings. One of the more peculiar events attributed to Gotama here is 'the miracle of Sāvatthī', during which flames shot up from his upper body and water streamed from his lower body.

Stephen Batchelor gives an account of the Sāvatthī period at Dharma Seed. And see Sāvatthī, and Sravasti.

Kusinārā

Kushinagar (Kusinārā in Pāli) was the town where Gotama died, in about 404 BCE. Of the four 'places arousing emotion', this is the one most likely to have actually been the place where the event associated with it took place (Bareau, 'Le parinirvāṇa du buddha et la naissance de la religion bouddhique'). The 80-year old Gotama was in the company of his attendant, Ānanda. The two old men had been walking northwards from Rājagaha, begging for alms-food and sleeping rough, with Gotama giving public talks along the way. Gotama got sick, 'with violent and deadly pains', during his last rains-residence at Beluvagāmaka, north of Vesāli, the capital of the Vajji republic. Heading north again, at the village of Pāvā (today in northern Bihar), he ate some hog's mincemeat (sūkaramaddava), which gave him a stomach pain and caused severe bleeding from his rectum. The food had triggered mesenteric infarction, an obstruction of the blood vessels of the mesentery, a part of the intestinal wall.

Gotama and Ānanda struggled on to Kusinārā, the capital of the northern Malla tribe. Ānanda described it as 'this little mud-walled town, this backwoods town, this branch township'. That Gotama had died in such a humble place was an embarrassment to later buddhists and they invented a myth that it had been a great city called Kusāvatī in a previous wordly existence, a myth they put into the mouth of the dying Gotama (in the 'Mahaparinibbana sutta'). Gotama and Ānanda stayed at a grove, the Uparvartana wood, near the Hiraññavati river, outside the town, and there Gotama died.

'From the information contained in the [Mahāparinibbāna] sutta we are able to estimate that he died about fifteen to eighteen hours after the attack ... the Buddha died from septic shock due to bacterial toxins and the infiltration of contaminated intestinal contents into his blood stream. This medical history is consistent with the usual course of this illness for a person of the Buddha's age.' (Mettanando Bhikkhu, 'The cause of the buddha's death')

His death in winter makes it unlikely that the food that triggered his second attack of mesenteric infarction was a mushroom, as vegetarian mahāyānin buddhists believe (not wanting to accept that he ate meat), since the type of mushroom that the mahāyānikas believe Gotama died of was unseasonal (Oskar von Hinüber, 'The last meal of the buddha').

Gotama left no recognized successor. He reportedly said to Ānanda: 'Ānanda, you might think: "The word of the teacher is a thing of the past, now we have no more teacher." But you should not regard it so. The doctrine and training taught by me and laid down for you are your teacher after I am gone.'

His last words were, reportedly: handa 'dāni bhikkhave āmantayāmi vo vayadhammā saṅkhārā appamādena sampādetha ('Well now, bhikkhus, I declare this to you: It is in the nature of formations to decay. Attain perfection through diligence.')

Stephen Batchelor gives a moving account of Gotama's last days at Dharma Seed. And see Kusinārā, Kushinagara, and Lumbini on trial.

The place that today's pilgrims visit as the site of Kusinārā is contested: an alternative location suggested is Rampurva.

Himanshu Ray, 'Buddhist monuments in colonial and post-colonial India' – link

Links

The life and death of Siddhattha Gotama

Bodhgaya Development Association

Bodhikusuma

stupa at Isipatana

Up 31-Jul-2010